Have you ever opened your closet to a rainbow array of colors and thought, well, it’s going to be black pants today, I guess? We have all fallen victim to closet color overload, where our clothing feels incapable of being mixed and matched, and just doesn’t even seem to look good on us. Well, here’s where seasonal color analysis can help you out.
Seasonal color analysis is a system that takes our skin tone, natural eye tone, and hair color and formulates the best color palette for us based on those factors. It takes into account our undertones (hue) and the value (light versus dark) of our skin, hair, and eyes and uses that to find the types of colors we look best in.
Hue: Your hue can either be cool or warm (there are also neutral leaning seasons but they will still often lean one way slightly)
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Your skin tone, hair color, and eye color will fall into one of four main seasonal categories: winter, spring, summer, and autumn.
The base families are named after seasons because each season has an established color association with it already. For instance, we think of oranges and red for autumn, icy white and pale blue for winter, lush green for spring, and light, airy colors for summer.
This is not a new concept and goes back to impressionist painters who had to accurately represent a seasonal landscape by the tones, hues, and shades they used. But the concept of seasonal color in regards to your own hair, skin, and eyes was popularized by Carole Jackson’s book “Color Me Beautiful” in the 1980s.
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Anyone else have flashbacks of their mom trying to properly categorize them when they were a teen? No, just me. Well, I plan to give you some easier-to-digest resources on how to determine your seasonal color.
Discovering your seasonal color can help you hone what colors look best on you and help you discover what new shades you should integrate into your wardrobe. It also provides clarity on why a certain shade might not work for you.
Seasonal color analysis is a great place to start with your own unique color palette. Certainly, you can expand it and develop a color palette that is uniquely you. However, this information will help guide you on how to choose colors outside your palette as well, by knowing your hues and picking colors with the correct undertones.
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As you can see in the below image, we have the same girl with a color that brings out her best features, a color that is neutral (doesn’t highlight but doesn’t take away from either), and a color that is wrong for her. (if you don’t see it, try imagining her in a full dress in that color).
The more you train your eye to see the depth of color, and the hue of the color, the more you will be able to accurately picks colors for your season. However, we will be getting into foundational color palettes for all 12 seasonal color analyses shortly.
So while your hue will relate to whether you have warm or cool undertones. Your value (light or dark) will include your overall coloring, but will more specifically focus on your hair color.
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Cool faces will have moderate to high contrast in their features. They often have darker hair and more pale skin. But all races can have cool undertones, and it breaks down to having a contrast between your skin tone and your hair.
In order to determine your exact undertone, you can try one of the following tests. These tests work well for most people, but they can create confusion. If you aren’t getting a clear undertone after a specific test, try another one. And, don’t get too hung up if one test feels like an outlier.
However, the MOST reliable way to find your seasonal color palette is to do color draping. This is examining how your skin reacts to color. I have an ULTIMATE guide on how to DIY your season, here.
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In natural sunlight put both silver and gold jewelry on your skin. Which one looks best? Which one gives you more even-toned, healthy-looking skin? If you look best in gold jewelry then you have warm undertones, and if you look best in silver jewelry you have cool undertones. Be careful about bias with this test. Your natural instinct may be to pick the jewelry color you wear most.
Look at the veins in your inner wrist. If they are mostly blue or purple you are cool-toned. If they are mostly green you are warm-toned. This test can be extremely helpful to some people and confusing for others (who may have different colored veins). So use each of these tests carefully and apply what works for you.
For this test, you can use a piece of white paper or a clear white piece of fabric (avoid ivory or off-white). Hold the fabric or paper near your face, sans any makeup, in natural light. If your skin looks more yellow, peachy, or golden, then you have warm undertones, and if your skin looks more blue, red, or pink, then you have cool undertones.
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If you tan really easily you have warm undertones. And if you burn or are unable to tan at all, then you most likely have cool undertones. Although, there are always exceptions to this one.
If none of the tests so far have given you clear answers there are two more options for you. You could be neutral-toned. Every person is technically a mix of both warm and cool tones, however, there is usually one dominant family. For neutral-toned people, there is no dominance and there is an even balance of both warm and cool. This could be the reason your test results show different answers when comparing different options. For instance, you might have green veins, but look best in gold jewelry. OR you might even have both green and blue veins but tan easily.
You can also do a comparison test against other faces with clear undertones. When comparing your face to others within the obvious undertone seasons, it can become obvious what coloring you match best.
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Now, even if you haven’t trained your eye yet, this color test/draping will help. Both of these photos were taken with no makeup, natural light, and with the same camera settings.
You can see that the orange makes my skin look blotchy and highlights the red patchiness on my nose and cheeks. Whereas pink makes my skin look clear and bright. I am cool-toned. If you look best in orange, then you are most likely warm-toned.
Now that you know your undertone, you can determine your color season by evaluating your hair color and eyes to further categorize it as light or dark.
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Summer seasons have cool undertones, but have lighter hair and eye colors. While they have some contrast between their skin tone and their hair/eyes it is much more moderate than in the winter seasons.
Autumn seasons have warm undertones, with dark hair and dark eyes. They do not have high or even moderate contrast between their skin, eyes, and hair, but rather create a soft blend between all three features.
Spring seasons have warm undertones but lighter hair and eyes. They can still have dark features (skin, hair, or eyes), but there isn’t a lot of contrast between the three features and it feels like a blend instead of stark contrast.
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There are 4 main seasons, as we have discussed. But that is not where the seasonal analysis ends. In order to expand upon all the options, they went further and broke it down into 12 main seasonal analysis options.
It starts with your undertone/hue (warm or cool), then goes onto value (light or deep), and then into chroma (clear or muted).
Once we take into consideration all three categories, we have 12 main options. This will help you choose the most flattering colors for your unique season, and guide you toward an easy palette to choose from.
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It does not mean you “can’t” wear certain colors. But instead, it is about picking colors with your correct undertone to more easily flatter your complexion.
The circle chart will give you a basic idea of what looks and colors we are associating with eachof the 12 options.
Cool winters have high contrast between their hair, skin tone, and eyes. They look best in icy colors and cool colors. Avoid warm-toned colors for the most flattering pairings. Pastels all also generally avoided and in their place, you should go for more vibrant or middle to dark-hued colors. Darker tones can work well for the cool winters, so long as they have a cool undertone.
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Eyes: Striking eyes (almost jewel-like) are a signature of the clear winter. Bright blue, green, clear gray hazel, and a rich brown
Clear winters have high contrast between their skin tone and hair and have striking clear eyes. They are most commonly found with darker hair shades like medium to dark brown but can have lighter hair if it has a cool undertone. They look best in vivid hues that have cool undertones,
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